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http://tv.sohu.com/20121012/n354734775.shtml
影片内容提要:转化的灵感,讲述了平淡无奇的五谷杂粮经卤素、酒曲、酵母等催化剂糅合后转化成各种美食的经历。腐乳、豆豉、黄酒、泡菜,都有一个共同点,它们都具有一种芳香浓郁的特殊风味。这种味道是人与微生物携手贡献的独特风味。
一、美食中英对照
大煮干丝:raised shredded chicken with ham and dried tofu
豆腐脑:tofu curd
香炸奶豆腐:fried dried milk cake
蒙古奶茶:Mongolia milky tea
炸乳扇:fried dairy fan
烤羊排:baked lamp chop
红烧毛豆腐:stinky tofu braised in soy sauce
酸菜白肉:pickled Chinese cabbage with plain boiled pork
酸菜饺子:dumpling of pickled Chinese cabbage
二、中英文台本
第三集《转化的灵感》
Episode 3 Inspiration for Transformation
在吃的法则里,风味重于一切。中国人从来没有把自己束缚在一张乏味的食品清单上。人们怀着对食物的理解,在不断的尝试中寻求着转化的灵感。
Taste is more important than anyting else as far as food is concerned. The Chinese have never restricted themselves to a certain tedious food list. With their understanding of food, the Chinese are always looking for an inspiration for change.
天一放晴,姚贵文就把竹匾搬到天台上。这些豆腐球是他和妻子几天的劳动成果。有些豆腐已经略显微黄,但这种程度的改变远远不够,姚贵文还要再耐心等待几天。干瘪坚硬以及黑褐色的表皮才是成熟的标志,这种变化来自于自然发酵。
Once the clouds clear up, Yao Guiwen moves the split-bamboo baskets to the terrace. He and his wife have spent days making the tofu balls. Some tofu has already turned yellowish. But that's far from enough. Yao has to wait several days more. When it gets hard and shriveled and the skin turns black, then the tofu has matured. The change is because of fermentation.
王翠华把不成形的嫩豆腐紧紧包裹起来,挤压出水分后,豆腐才会成形。如果不抓紧时间,新鲜的豆腐很快就会变馊,这意味着她必须包得飞快,并且没有时间休息。
Wang Cuihua tightly wraps the shapeless tender tofu with gauze and squeezes out the water. Then the tofu takes shape. There is no time to lose. The fresh tofu will quickly turn sour. It means Wang has to work very quickly without rest.
一盆烧得恰到好处的炭火,是姚贵文下午工作的关键。
A basin of charcoal fire of proper heat will be the key to Yao's work in the afternoon.
位于云南红河地区的建水古城,古称临安。在1200年间,一度是中国西南的重镇。如今,时间已经让炫目的荣耀褪色。和云南的许多小城一样,建水是一个多民族的聚居地,各种文化的掺杂形成了特有的氛围和格局。
Jianshui in Honghe Prefecture of Yunnan Province was named Lin'an in ancient times. It was once an important city in southwest China during the past 1200 years. Its brilliance has gradually faded with the passage of time. Just like many other towns in Yunnan, Jianshui is a multi-ethnic settlement. Different cultures have merged here, conjuring a unique atmosphere.
炭火的热力,让坚硬的豆腐迅速膨胀,这很容易让人联想到发酵的面团。建水人很会享用这种由风干和发酵打造出的特殊味道。蘸豆腐的调料各有不同,但是对姚贵文来说,豆腐本身的质地才是最重要的。
The tough tofu quickly inflates in the heat of charcoal fire. It reminds people of fermented flour. People of Jianshui like enjoying this special air-dried and fermented flavor. People can enjoy the tofu with varied sauces. But for Yao, the texture of tofu is the most important.
河谷地区的温暖很容易让豆腐发酵,而适度的干燥又让它们不至于腐败。对于风、水、阳光和豆腐之间的微妙关系,姚贵文比任何人都要敏感。
Tofu easily ferments in the warm weather of the river valley area. And the mildly dry air prevents it from rotting. Yao is more sensitive than anyone else to the subtle relations between wind, water, sunshine and tofu.
这里是建水最著名的大板井。在水井旁,女人们单靠手指的合作,就构建起一条豆腐的流水线。
This is the famous Daban Well of Jianshui. Beside the well, women set up a production line of tofu by just using their fingers.
做豆腐的各个环节都和水密不可分。拥有128口水井的建水人很懂得水。中国人相信,水能滋养人的灵性和觉悟。这一点,就仿佛水对豆腐的塑造。两者间有一种不可言喻的共通。
Water is a necessity in every procedure of making tofu. With a total of 128 wells in Jianshui, local residents are well versed with water. The Chinese believe water nourishes the spirit and mind up people. Just like water to tofu, the common points speak for themselves.
在距离建水不到40公里的古城石屏,这里的豆腐在气质上却大为不同。成形的豆腐体积大得惊人,难得的是它们极富韧性,几乎不会破损,少许的盐就可以最大程度地保鲜。
The ancient town of Shiping is less than 40km from Jianshui. Tofu here has a completely different look. The finished product is shockingly big. But it's unusually tenacious. And it almost doesn't crumble. A dash of salt can best preserve the tofu's freshness.
中国的云南,历来不是大豆的主要产区,可却不妨碍这里拥有悠久的豆腐历史。吃一颗豆腐,投一粒玉米,用这种方法记数,买卖双方十分默契。
Yunnan has never been a major soybean production area, but it has a long history of making tofu. One corn for one piece of tofu. There is a tacit agreement between the buyer and the seller.
30年来,姚贵文的豆腐摊上很少冷清过。从豆腐摊回家要走30分钟,几乎横穿老城。发展的速度飞快,这改变了建水的很多事情。在漫长的时间里,一些变量消失了,一些变量被修改,还有新的变量加入进来。总有一些经得起时间的磨砺,保留了下来。
For the past 3 decades, Yao's tofu stall has never been quiet. It takes half an hour to walk from the stall to home and Yao has to go across almost the entire town. The rapid development has changed many aspects of Jianshui. As time goes by, some variables have disappeared and others, altered. And new ones are added. But there are some that stand the tests of time and remain.
姚贵文和王翠华围绕着豆腐的生活清淡辛苦。丈夫最大的愿望是能去远方的大湖钓鱼,虽然他从来没有钓过鱼。在这对夫妇眼里,每一颗豆腐都很珍贵,它们能够帮助自己供养子女,过上幸福安稳的生活。
The Yao's life centered on tofu is watery and hard. The biggest wish of the husband is to fish in the big lake far away. He has no merits but only shorcomings. To the couple, every piece of tofu is precious. It help them to support their children and sustain a happy family life.
在1000多年里,伴随着北方民族的数次迁入,豆腐代表的中原饮食文化已经深植于西南边陲的这片富饶之地,并且演绎出自己独特的气质。这些一脉相承的制作细节,让人联想到几千公里外的中原腹地。在那里,中国的豆腐从诞生到兴盛,一路走过2000年。
In the past over 1,000 years, with rounds of northern immigration, tofu, the representative of central China's food culture, has taken roots in the abundant land on the south-west border. And it has developed its unique disposition. The production details remind us of the hinterland of central China that is thousands of miles away. There, from birth to prosperity, tofu has enjoyed a history of 2,000 years.
胡学兵正赶往县城,他要在早市上卖掉今天的豆腐。
Hu Xuebing is on his way to the county town. He needs to sell his tofu at the morning market.
寿县是安徽省北部的一座古老的小县城,这里的人们对豆腐的情感非同一般。他们坚信,自己的祖先就是伟大的豆腐发明者。10月中旬,皖北地区的黄豆早已收获归仓,用新黄豆磨制的豆腐向来最受欢迎。在中国几千年的农耕史中,大豆一直占据着重要的地位置。在已知的豆科食物中,大豆是蛋白质最丰富也是最廉价的食物来源,可它早期的境遇一度尴尬。煮熟的大豆无法引起人们的食欲,并且使肠胃大量胀气,迫切的需要就是寻找到进食大豆的最佳方式。
Shouxian County is an old little town in the north Anhui province, people there has a special attachment to tofu. They believe their ancestors invented the great tofu. In middle October, soybeans in north Anhui have already been ripped and stored tofu made with newly harvested soybeans has always been the most popular in China's thousands years old history of agriculture. Soybean has long occupied an important position among the well-known legumes. Soybean is the richest in protein. So for the cheapest sustenance, but it was once in an awkward position. Cooked soybeans failed to wet people's appetite and to make matter's worse caused flatulence people urgently need to find the best way to consume soybeans.
秤盘里的白色粉末是石膏,它是把豆浆点化成豆腐的关键。胡学兵对于石膏的纯熟运用和他的祖先如出一辙。在煮沸的豆浆中,变性的蛋白质和石膏相遇后迅速发生胶凝作用,这种变化如此巨大,以至于在瞬间就可以觉察到。
The white power on scale is gypsum, the key to turn soy milk into tofu. Hu Xuebing can use gypsum as skillfully as his ancestors.When the denatured protein meets the gypsum, the boiling soymilk quickly coagulates. The change is so drastic that it can be see in a blink of eye in ancient days.
遥远的年代里,石膏常常出现在中国术士们的秘籍之中,而它和豆腐的渊源据说也恰恰与此相关。很多人相信,2000多年前,正是热衷炼丹的淮南王刘安,在八公山中用豆浆培育丹苗时碰巧加入了石膏,于是无意间促成了豆腐的诞生。不管事实是不是真的那么富有戏剧性,中国人必定经历了漫长的摸索,才让豆腐最终成为了一种了不起的中国食物。无论如何,豆腐的诞生彻底改变了大豆的命运。
Gypsum often appeared in secret scriptures of Chinese war locks. It is said that was how the relation between gypsum and tofu originated started.Over 2000 years ago, Liu An, the king of Huanan was addicted to alchemy when nurturing a mortal pill in soymilk. He happened to add some gypsum in it. Many people believe that's how tofu was invented, regardless of whether the reality was as dramatic as the story. Chinese must be coping for a long time before finally making tofu a great food of china. The invention of tofu however completely changes the fate of soybeans.
豆腐无限包容的个性,给擅长烹饪的中国人创造了极大的想象空间。那些原本让大豆尴尬的不利因素----胰蛋白酶抑制剂、不能被吸收的糖以及植酸,在中国人古老的转化手段中,都被自觉或不自觉地消除了。豆腐的出现,让人体对大豆蛋白的吸收和利用达到了一种高峰。中国厨师对豆腐的理解往往会让人大吃一惊。或许可以说,中国人用豆腐表达了自己柔软变通的适应性。所有的这些,让一粒黄豆得到了升华。这些乳白色的浆液令人浮想联翩。
[en]The great flexibility tofu offers a huge space for the imagination of the Chinese well-known for color its skill. The disadvantages of soybeans were eliminated by reason or unconsciously. As the ancient Chinese transform soybeans into tofu, the value of soybeans protein to human body reach the climax for the invention of tofu. Chinese cooks' understanding of tofu will often take you by surprise. May be it is also correct to say that the Chinese are showing their adaptability through tofu, and thus, soybean has been sublimated.The milky juice arouses many thoughts in our mind.
在中国北方的辽阔草原上,蒙古族的牧民也被另一种流淌的美味滋养着。9月下旬,乌珠穆沁草原已经褪去了绿色。孟克和家人抓紧时间,赶在严冬之前进行最后的出场放牧。草原的深秋充满寒意。干燥的牛粪可以让炉火烧得更旺一些。
On the vast grassland of north China,the Mongolian nomads are nourished by another flowing delicacy. In late September, the green cover is fading on Uzemchin grassland. Mengke and his family are seizing the last days of grazing before the bitter winter arrives. The chill is felt in the late autumn of grassland; dried cow manure can make the fire burn up.
奶茶是早餐中永远的主角。砖茶、黄油、炒米以及鲜奶是一锅奶茶的重要内容。奶豆腐是几天前做的。草原上的人离不开奶茶和奶豆腐,无法靠蔬菜和水果来补充的维生素和矿物质,都可以从这里获得。
Milk tea is always a must for breakfast. Brick tea, butter, stir-fired millet and fresh milk are the important ingredients for making milk tea. Milk curd was made several days ago. Milk tea and curd are indispensable for people living on the grassland. They provide vitamins and minerals that can't be gained from vegetables and fruits.
草原有着神奇的化繁为简的能力。“木犊”是孟克的牛,正处在哺乳期。妈妈要想顺利从母牛那里获得鲜奶,得先过小牛这一关。鲜奶已经不像天气暖和时那样容易发酵了。妈妈要抓紧时间赶制酸奶豆腐,作为漫长冬天的储备。表皮的酸奶油先被小心地舀出来,这是很珍贵的部分。发酵的牛奶结成块状的凝乳,蛋白和乳清在火力下分离开。乳清不会被浪费,它们最适合喂牲畜。需要不停地搅动,这样奶团才不会粘到锅底。最后的乳清被彻底耗干时,奶团被趁热盛进模具中。孟克把新鲜的奶豆腐最先递到爷爷面前,那是最好的美食。
Grassland has the magical power to make tings simple. Mudu the cattle of Mengke, is in the lactation period, to get fresh milk from the cow, Mengke's mother, has to get permission from the cow. Fresh milk no longer ferments as easily as during the warm days. The mother must hurry to make the milk curd as food reserve for the long winter. The sour cream on the surface is carefully ladled out and the cream is very precious. Fermented milk curdles protein and whey is separated when heated. The whey, though, won't be wasted as it best for feeding livestock. You have to keep stirring the juice, so that the curdled milk won't stick to the pot. When the whey is fully separated, the hot curdled milk is put into moulds. Mengke offers the fresh milk curd to his grandfather. It’s the best delicacy.
一直向南,几千公里外的云南,几乎是同样的情形。粗重的木筷被灵活地使用。一个光滑的牛奶团子很快就被揉了出来。三两下后奶团子被拉扯成片,卷上墙边的竹架。
Heading straight south, an almost identical scene is happening in Yunnan thousands of miles away. Thick and heavy chopsticks are moved vigorously. A smooth curdled "milk lump" has soon be rolled after several moves; the lump is dragged into a sheet which is then rolled up onto the bamboo rack by the wall.
在远离北方草原的云南大理,白族人家用相似的手法来转化这里的牛奶。乳扇被晾到场院里风干,像是挂起了巨大的风铃。
In far away Dali, Yunnan, a similarly method is adopted by the Bai minority to transfer milk Rushan, made from milk are hung and air dried in the yard just like giant wind chimes.
在800年前,忽必烈时期的蒙古人远征到云南。定居至此的蒙古人也带来了遥远家乡的奶食味道。他们不会想到,这种转化的手法一直被流传下来,生机勃勃。
Over 800 years ago, during the reign of Kublai Khan, the expeditionary Mongolians arrived and settled in Yunnan. They brought dairy products from their home. Unexpectedly, the way to transform milk has been passed down and still prosperous even today.
妈妈从木盒里取出已经结实的奶豆腐。风干的奶豆腐可以保存很久。肉并不经常吃,因为牲畜太宝贵了。各种奶食几乎成为草原上的主食。
Mother takes the hardened milk curd out of the wooden box. Dried milk curd can be preserved for an extremely long time. Meat is a luxury as livestock is so precious. Dairy products have almost become the main food on the grassland.
这是位于北京市区的一座大型的蒙古餐厅。美味的烤羊背成为食客们的首选,它很容易让人联想到远方草原上那种粗犷的生活方式。但是对于那些身处草原腹地的人们来说,这些奶食才更贴近他们原本的生活。
This is a Mongolian restaurant in downtown Beijing. The mouth-watering roast lamb back is the top choice for dinners here. It easily reminds us of the food lifestyle on the grassland, but to people living in the depth of the grassland, milk products are more close to their real life.
雨让气温降到了冰点。二姐在灌木里发现了走失的羊羔。这些牛羊是家里的财产,也是牧人生命的一部分。
Rain brings the temperatures down to freezing. Mengke's second elder sister has found the lost lamb in the bush. Lamb tock are family assets and part of the nomads' life.
孟克换上了过冬的新袍子。热茶和奶豆腐让孟克并不觉得冷。这些奶食将持续不断地提供热量,足够支持他一上午的放牧。望远镜是爷爷当年的战利品。孟克三岁时失去父亲,从小跟着爷爷学习放牧。爷爷告诉孟克,能做好一个牧民就很好了。手持套马杆,纵身跃上马背,孟克觉得自己充满力量。
Mengke has changed into his new winter robe. Hot tea and milk curd keep him warm, and the milk products will continually provide calories to sustain the entirely morning's herding. The telescope is the legacy of his grandfather's. Mengke lost his father at the age of three. He learned to herd with his grandfather. His grandfather has told him that it's good enough to be a qualified herdsman. Host poling in hands, Mengke threw himself on the horse, feeling full of strength.
草原之外的地区,游牧被农耕取代,人们没有条件大规模地放牧牛羊,有限的土地首先被用来耕种,乳制品最终没能在中原的厨房站得一席之地。农耕文明中的人们转而将目光投向另外一种植物资源,去获取宝贵的蛋白质,另辟蹊径地在植物范畴寻找到了蛋白质的支持。这对历史上缺乏肉食的中国人来说,即是智慧也是一种幸运。
Out the grassland, herding is substituted by farming. Without the conditions for grazing cattle and sheep, people choose to cultivate the limited land. Dairy products have failed to hold this position in kitchens of central China. People living in farming culture have shifted their eyes to other plant resources to obtain precious protein. It was revolutionary for the Chinese to gain protein from plants. To the Chinese who historically had insufficient meat supply, the discovery is wisdom as well as luck.
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